25 Jun 2012

Valparai: Seventh Heaven in the World | Adventurous Ghats Road driving, Water Falls, Rivers, Dam, Tea Plantations, Temple



"Valparai", we heard the name from a Tamil Tele film. The place is near to pollachi and is the idyllic place to let lose your formality and succumb to elements of nature. For adventurous drivers the way to the Valparai will be more thrilling and unforgettable. The Valpara plateau is surrounded by four protected areas — Indira Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary, Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary, Eravikulam National Park and Parambikulam Wildlife Sanctuary.
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Places of Interest
En Route Pollachi
Bison Vally View (Shakthi Thalanar Route), Poonachi Falls, Tiger Vally View, Loams View, Monkey Falls, Adhaliamman Temple (Navamalai), Aliyar Dam, Topslip and Parambikulam
En Route Akkamalai
Balaji Temple, Karamalai Matha Church (Velankanni Shrine), Akkamalai View, Grass Hills.
En Route Chinnakallar
Koolangal River Nirar Dam, Ministers View, Chinnakallar Falls.
En Route Mudis
Sidhi Vinayagar temple, Nullamudi Pooncholai View Point, Number pari View Point, Myladumparai View Point.
En Route Chalakkudy
Sholayar Dam, Manamboly Power House, Peringaldam View, Peringalkuthu Dam Boating, Vazhachal Falls, Charpa Falls, Athirappilly Falls, Thumburmuzhy Butterfly Park.
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Quick Look at the Geographical aspects
Location                              : Tamilnadu, Coimbatore Dist. Valparai
Access                                 : Via Pollachi / From Cochin, Chalakudi Via Atharapilly
Latitudes                            : 10° 13.2' and 10°33.3'N
Longitude                           : 76° 49.3'E and 77° 21.4'
Tiger Reserve Area          : 958 Sq.Km

Altitude                              : 1080 MSL
Average Rainfall               : 500 – 5000 mm South West & North East
Best Season                       :  January and May to December
Climate                        : Moderate Warn climate almost through the year and fairly cloud during winter months (November & December)

Trip Day 1
Because of some personal commitment and the interest on place, I have decided to go along with colleagues from Kannur. But this time a small change. We decided to go by a traveller from Coimbatore. We decided to start from Coimbatore because of the lack of cash for the trip. So I want to join them in the Coimbatore railway station, but they have already booked the train for me in the West Cost Express. Immediately I got in the train and went for a sleep. Because, the time was 12.20 am on 23/06/12, when I started the trip from Calicut. The sun rays touched my face through the windows and I woke up in the morning at sharp time. My friends were waiting there. Then we went for a bed coffee from the Railway station. Now the time was 6.50 am. We got the traveller from station, which we have already booked and the trip started from there. I have already checked the route map and the places of interest from the net. So it was easy for me to identify the routes and timings. Our next spot was Pollachi. It was around 35 Kms from Coimbatore and many local buses are also available in this route.

Valparai is situated 100 Kms from Coimbatore and 65 Kms from Pollachi. It is called as "the 7th Heaven" in the world. 

We selected the route through Pollachi because it was the shortest route from north kerala travellers. If you are coming from South side of the Kerala or Middle,  then take the second route through Chalakkudi. We had our breakfast at 7. 30 AM from Pollachi and the place is famous for bhramin's special food and film locations. After food we got the real mood of trip and everyone in the group was in a pleasure mood. As I have written in the earlier posts, I choose co driver seat of the traveller and tried to know about the driver. He was experienced for Valparai trip and driving was too good. After 24 Kms the first check post came, and that shown the forest starting from here. Left side we can see the beauty of Aliyar Dam and was constructed during 1959-1969 across the Aliyar River, mainly for irrigation purposes. We planned to enter in to the Dam in return journey. Our first aim was to get in to the hotel which we already booked through phone and want to keep our luggage’s there. The group includes ladies also. Someone in the group was busy with capturing the beauty of the dam from the traveller. After a few Kms from the first check post the second one came. The guard’s available there tried to remember us about the forest and the ECO commandments in the forest area. From here the Ghats road is starting. The first Information stone shows that we are in the First hair pin bend out of the 40. I was surprised by seeing that. Because, I  saw the Mankoottam Churam, Pal churam, Thamarassery churam and Vazhikkadavu Churam. But all contains a maximum of 20 hair pin bends. But here it was 40 "U" turns. When we started the ascending, the climate shows the real face of Valparai. Temperature becoming low and cold air is entering into the traveller. The time was around 9.30 am when we started the ghat roads. 

Just before the first "U" turn, we saw a group of monkeys but not less than 40 were playing in the road. Some vehicles are parked there and a near by board that indicates the second tourist spot in the way "Monkey falls" [27 Kms from Pollachi]. Everyone is interested to get in to the spot. Just we opened the door of the traveller, one 'smart' monkey jumped in to the vehicle and he was busy with the searching of food items. But he didn’t found anything from our vehicle. That time one guard came there and tried to take that monkey out and he got success in that within 3 minutes.

The water falls is not too big but a calm one. It is hiding from the road with a big rock. Big rocks were surrounding it. It is very near to the Aliyar Park and the local calling it as "Chinna Kuttralam". Because of the unlimited monkeys around this waterfall, it got the name "Monkey Falls". The water coming from the top is very clean and the facilities for the bath in the falls are available there. Got relaxed and then went to the heaven (Valparai). We need to cover 40 hair pin bends to reach the Valparai Town. If you are lucky, on the way you may meet elephants and lion tailed monkey in the way. Many view points are available in between the Ghat Roads and are good locations for different Camera angles. 



The main view point is coming after 36th Km (Attakatty) and there also you can expect monkeys. From there you will get a total view of the Aliyar Dam reservoir and the surrounded hills. It was a good location for our photos. All of us tried different styles and poses in front of the camera. After reaching to the top of the hill the road is going down and then you can see the tea estates around the road. Some company outlets were there for the visitors, those who wish to buy the quality tea powder from there. The cost is around Rs. 75 for 0.5 Kg but the taste of the tea was too good. 


By 11.30 we reached the Valparai town which is not too big. Many merchants and shops are there, for visitors. Mainly I saw umbrellas and Blankets there. Now the temperature is around 18 degree C at noon time itself. We checked in to the hotel (Hotel Green Hills). The rooms are good and neat, and the service also too good. We took 3 Deluxe Double Rooms for 9 people. A TV, Double coat bed, chairs, teapoy, table, shelf, fan, water heater and side tables are available in each room. There is no need of AC in the room, the total place was air conditioned by the nature.




For more details about the hotel Green Hill P Ltd.: http://www.valparaigreenhillhotels.com

Please note: There is no mobile coverage throughout the Ghat Roads and Call booths are also not available. So better you avoid single person trips.

After food and enough resting we planned to start the Afternoon session from a temple. So we went to the Sidhi Vinayaka Temple and is nearest to the Valparai town. For every group of visitors the "Poojari" will do the "Pooja". Dont forget to give "Kanikka" to him after the Pooja but not compulsory. The cold floors and surrounded garden gave us a meditation mood. In front of the God's Statue, 3 bells are hanged and we got permission to ring the bell. Because of the noon time we got invitation for the food from there. But we already had the food from Valparai town. 

Then we decided to go to "Poonchola Suicide Point" without wasting time. The journey was through the tea estate roads. But unfortunately when we reach the spot, rain started to show its strength. So we opened the umbrellas, but the interest to see the spot has reduced. But suddenly rain stopped and we took the tickets for entry (Rs 30 for 4 persons). The guard told us, the place will be covered by the mist because of this rain. But some of us already started the walk. It’s around 500 mtrs to the spot from the ticket counter. We felt sad because the whole place was covered by the mist. But then I tried to find out the good angle for my camera shots. Because I already heard that the background mist and trees will give a good scenic beauty for the photos. I got success in that and we took many photos with everyone in the group as a group / single. We spent around 1 hr there and then moved to Sholayar Dam (Solaiyar Dam). 



It is situated 20 Kms from Valparai and is the second deepest dam in Asia. The Solaiyar dam is a vital reservoir under the Parambikulam Aliyar Project and has a water storage capacity of 160 ft (49 m). The reservoir's overflowing waters are let into the Parambikulam Reservoir through the saddle dam.

The entry to the dam is restricted and the place is not good for a scenic beauty or time pass. The unmaintained small park and the restriction gives a bad feel there. Also no boating facility is available there. But we spend the evening time there and had tea from the nearby shop. Then we started the return journey by 6.20 pm and reach the room by 7 pm. Because of the cool climate, all gents were interested to have a bottle of beer and little bit heavy food. The sun already went down to the water and we to the sleep with cool dreams in the heaven.


The END of the FIRST Day.
Please Wait for the Second day descriptions, route map, instructions and other details


19 Jun 2012

Route map: From Calicut to Bangalore in two different routes | Forest, Ghats Roads to Bangalore from Kerala | Thamarassery, Bandipur, Mudumali, Vazhikkadavu, Gundlupet, Mysuru


To Bangalore

This was the other trip in my cute black Dezire on last Friday morning. It was a sudden decision by me to go to bangalore. I searched in the Google map for the distance and travel routes and its around 370 Kms. So for a company I called my friend in Kannur. He is very interested in travels that I know. So I expected a positive reply. As per my expectation he was ready for the trip and he shows interest to drive through Ghats. So I went to the Calicut New Bus Stand to pick him and we started from there by 11.30 am. Our plan is to reach Bangalore by night 7. After a 20 min when reached Karanthur we filled the diesel tank with 22 L. It was enough for one side journey to Bangalore from Calicut. He took the driving seat for the trip and normally I like co driver seat than the driving seat. We were chosen NH766 to the Mysuru through Thamarassery Ghats. This was the third Ghats road I am choosing to cross Kerala border to Karnataka and first time through Thamarassery.

Because of Week end day (Friday) traffic was little bit more in this route. After 50 minutes we entered to the Thamarassery and on the way you can find Thusharagiry Waterfalls just 6 Kms from the Highway. It was a superb place for trekking and a bath. Around 35 Kms are there from Calicut to Thamarassery. Then to Adivaram, where the famous Thamarassery Ghat roads starting. Thamarassery Ghats were famous through the Malayalam film "Vellanakalude Nadu". Many of you are remembering the dialogs by Pappu in it. And we started the Ghats road. The thermometer in the vehicle showing 24 degree C at noon time. It is reducing when we going up to the top portion of the Ghats. So I just opened the windows for a while. 






Many photo spots are available in this time. So better take a stop here in the spots and take a look to the down portion. It will be amazing. Many trucks and Buses were there when we started the Ghats road and it was risky to travel through this way more than a 40 Kms Speed in Car. The Ghats road is for 20 Kms but it took around 50 minutes to cover. The Ghats road is ending at Vythiri and there we took a small break. Then we started to Sulthan bathery and was our next targeted stop. In between we got confused to pass through the city. At that time GPS helped us to cover all complicated routes/ doubts in the path. Vythiri to Sulthan Bathery is around 36 Kms and will take around 30 min travel.


The next stage of travel was through Muthanga Wild life Santuary and Bandipur national Park which are sanctuaries for Gaur, Chital, Elephants, Tigers, Indian leopards and other threatened species. These two are also the favourite spots for tourists. We took food from the Muthanga check post stop. There are some small hotels are availabe. Kappa, Meals, Fish fry, Omlet, Biriyani were available at that time and was tasty. The roads before the border (Kerala side) were ok but after that it was excellent. But many small humps will be there in a short distance to avoid over speed through the forest area. On the way we saw a group of elephants, monkeys near to the way and were unexpected. So if you are lucky you can spot some wild animals here. But remember the whole area is plastic free zone. Don’t put any plastic wastes inside the forest. And parking in the forest is also risky. So you can find many instructional boards in this area. Guards available in the check post will remember you about this. The traffic in this area was very less by afternoon time.

And now we are reaching the Bandipur Check post by evening. Just remember it will be opened for Morning 6 AM to Night 9 PM. Except these timing you cannot cross the check post. So the trips through this area should be well planned. No other nearby bypass road is available. The travel through the Bandipur National Park was mind fresh in comparatively slow speed. The next point was Gundlupet and then Mysuru for us. Mysuru is famous for Palace, St. Philominas Church and Chamundeswari Temple. The traffic in the city was too high in the evening. We used outer ring roads to pass the city traffic. Here we are leaving NH 766 and entered to NH 17 to Bangalore. 



Just follow the course of the road. From Mysuru to Bangalore we relaxed when driving. It was 4 line highways and the road is in good condition. By night 8 pm we reached the Bangalore and take rest for the next day meeting and return journey.


Note: High Way Speed for a LMV is 70 Kms/Hr


Return Journey to Calicut

We started our return journey after the works in Bangalore by 2.00 pm. The way to Mysuru is NH17 where we took the journey. This time we took the straight road from the Gundlupet to take the route through Gudallur (not through city) and Mudumalai Natioanal Park. If we are choosing this route we are passing through Tamil Nadu to reach the Kerala Boarder. The travel through the forest area was very interesting and we can expect many wild animals in this region and we met some. The condition of the road in some areas is not good. So be careful while driving.


 
The path is going to Vazhikkadavu Ghat Road. This was the next hot driving spot in our journey. The roads are very dangerous than Thamarassery Ghat Road and the width of the road is also smaller than the Thamarassery. Vazhikkadavu Ghat Road contains many U, L turns which is risky in driving and the dream route for drivers those who enjoying the adventurous routes. Also you can expect more Heavy Motor vehicles in this road. Thus by nigh 10.30 pm we reached Calicut after a long journey. Then for a hard sleep.





Mudumalai National Park View

Vazhikkadavu Ghats Road


Note: Both routes have around same distance but the easiest path is through Thamarassery Ghat.
Notice: This time, because of some technical problems my camera was in dead mode. So Here I uploaded pictures from 3rd party sites including wikipedia. So if you feel the pictures are copy righted for you, then please inform me through mail. I will remove it with in a limited time. Thanks to the Actual up loaders of the pictures

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